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Off-the-Grid Adventure: McCarthy Road

7/15/2015

12 Comments

 
I didn’t know how refreshing being off the grid for a few days would be until we did it. As we drove back into town, I felt some sort of sadness to be back to “easy” life in civilization. I got a glimpse of the hard work required to live so far away from modern conveniences, but I admire those who live that way daily. You experience a special peace when you get away from life’s noise and fast pace.
Camping along the Chokosna River
For those of us Alaskans who don’t live a total subsistence lifestyle and have jobs that require us to live in town, we are fortunate enough to have these kinds of places to drive, boat, or fly to. A couple weeks ago my husband, his parents, and I got to enjoy an off-the-grid retreat via the historic McCarthy Road, located in the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park.
Fireweed in early summer in Glacier View, Alaska
What a trip! The scenery of the Glenn Highway northeast of Palmer is incredible. I’m blown away every time. The road winds through a canyon, following a river that begins at the gorgeous Matanuska Glacier (a fun place to hike!). Tall, rugged mountains hug you from both sides as you drive. The greenery this time of year is lush and beautiful. Unfortunately, I didn’t really get pictures of this drive, as I was preoccupied just staring out the window! Here’s a shot of fireweed, one of our beloved Alaskan wildflowers. You can see just a bit of another glacier in the background coming down between the mountains. I took this once we got out into more wide-open land.

After a quick stop at The Hub of Alaska in Glennallen, a quirky place to stop for gas, snacks, and random Alaskan souvenirs, we stopped at Circle F Ranch to see the yaks, and this country girl LOVED it! My husband knows my dream is to move out of town and have at least a couple acres but still live close enough that he can commute to work. I learned from this rancher, who supplies starter herds to people all over the state, that we could have a few yaks with just a couple acres! Hmmm…
Supposedly they have tasty, lean meat, and their fur is soft but strong and can be made into a yarn similar to but not as expensive as qiviut, a luxurious yarn made from musk ox fur. The man who runs this hundred-acre ranch has worked hard to raise a tame herd. We walked right in among them and even got close to their newborn calves!
Tibetan Yak calves in Alaska
Yak farm in Kenny Lake, Alaska
Salmon fish wheel on land on the bank of the Copper River
We continued on toward the B&B we were to stay at and stopped to look at the fish wheels set up on the Copper River. New fish wheels aren’t allowed anymore, so only the existing ones that have been grandfathered in are still standing on Alaska Native corporation land.

After the sleepy but charming town of Chitina (pronounced “Chitna”), we turned onto the famed McCarthy Road. The current road was built over an old railroad created to haul copper from the Kennecott Mine in the early 1900s. The road is still rough, so you have to drive slowly the whole way, but we were pleasantly surprised at the current condition it’s in. Here’s some interesting info about the road.
Chitina River from the McCarthy Road
We pulled off on a small dirt shoulder high above a canyon so I could get a few photos of the beautiful Chitina River. I scrambled down fifteen feet, and I could only see wilderness all around me. We saw no cars on the road for quite a while, and at this part of the road there were no visible buildings anywhere. What refreshed me the most, though, was the smell! Almost all of Alaska’s air is really fresh, but Anchorage’s air has nothing on the wild air of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, the United States' largest national park! I dragged myself back to the car after deeply inhaling the pure oxygen, and we continued on.
Overlooking the Chitina River and the surrounding mountains
A little later, we came around a bend toward an old, high bridge that my father-in-law recognized as the Kuskulana Bridge, which they’d walked across when my husband and his brothers were young. He drove the car down a muddy path and parked underneath the bridge, and then we hoisted ourselves up onto the concrete base and then the metal-grate walkway.
Kuskulana Bridge over the gorge from a distance
Fireweed and the old railway trestle bridge
I would not call myself scared of heights, but walking on this thing made my body involuntarily shake! I enjoyed looking down at the rushing river 238 feet below me, and I made it out to the middle point (the whole bridge is over 500 feet long), but it was a pretty crazy—and memorable—experience.
Symmetry of the trestles on the Kuskulana Bridge walkway
Looking way down at the glacial Kuskulana River
Metal trestles holding me up 238 feet from the river
Stay tuned for more of our off-the-grid adventure! Next up, the bed-and-breakfast with million-dollar views and a hike on a magnificent glacier! (Read it here!)
12 Comments
Kelly Fenley link
7/15/2015 03:50:47 am

Oooh great pics, Mar! That looks amazing!

Reply
Mary Anne Brady
7/16/2015 12:55:58 am

It was fantastic! We are expanding our list of favorite places up here. :)

Reply
Bonnie
7/15/2015 05:05:29 am

Fabulous pictures and adventure. We are inspired, and trying to figure out a way to get there this summer. The bridge loooks scary!!

Reply
Mary Anne Brady
7/16/2015 12:57:45 am

I hope you can make it out there! The bridge was far less intimidating to cross in a car than by foot, though some may still close their eyes. :)

Reply
Walt Franklin link
7/15/2015 11:57:14 am

Wonderful reflections of the journey. Wondering how far from the city you are at this point, and looking forward to more. Thanks for sharing!

Reply
Mary Anne Brady
7/16/2015 01:00:10 am

I'd say that bridge was maybe six hours from Anchorage, more or less depending on stops. There are towns and communities along the way, but they get successively smaller the farther you get from the city.

Reply
Rick J. Musick
7/16/2015 12:32:03 am

Absolutely beautiful! I love travelling. Antiquing, drinking coffee in small cafe's. Hiking and admiring the beauty of God's creation. You are blessed my friend...blessed indeed!

Reply
Mary Anne Brady
7/17/2015 06:51:09 am

Thanks, Rick! Experiencing new places and cultures, indoors and outdoors, is such a memorable experience.

Reply
Sarah link
7/16/2015 02:03:56 pm

Wow that scenery is incredible., I'm not sure I would have enjoyed the walk across the bridge! Sarah x

Reply
Mary Anne Brady
7/17/2015 06:52:05 am

It was a little nerve-wracking, but I'm glad I did it! Thanks for visiting!

Reply
Meghan
7/16/2015 11:51:41 pm

We loved going out to McCarthy. This was one of our last great Alaskan adventures. Your blog makes me so happy, yet so "home sick" for that beautiful place I came to love. Keep posting, I'm living vicariously through your blog :)

Reply
Mary Anne Brady
7/17/2015 06:54:44 am

Aww, thanks Meghan! I'm glad you guys got to go to McCarthy! You seemed to find such interesting places and grand adventures up here. Hope you can come visit and see it again soon!

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    I'm a mom of twins, published author, editor, amateur photographer, and nature enthusiast with an unlimited supply of curiosity. Come discover the little wonders I find during my everyday life in Alaska.

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